Tuesday, December 20, 2022

Call to prayer for Upper Nile

Indeed, most of us like to be “home” with family for Christmas. Interestingly, that was not the case for two humble Jewish villagers, Mary and Joseph, living under the shadow of the Roman Empire, finding themselves far from their home on the birth of their firstborn son, 2,000 years ago. In Fashoda County, South Sudan, the situation is worse than it was for Joseph and Mary. People’s homes and communities are being burned to the ground, they are running for their lives, they are hiding in swamps, surrounded by floodwaters. The innocents have been targeted for death, the elderly, women, and children. Please pray for those in harm’s way, those who seek refuge, and those who need God’s supernatural intervention. Bob visited this area in August of this year, so it feels close to home. Two evangelists and several members of the South Sudan Presbyterian Evangelical Church have been killed in Fashoda this month.


Bob in Kodok with pastors and evangelists of SSPEC this year

We want to share a ‘call to prayer’ (below) from the Stated Clerk of the Presbyterian Church (USA) this month, and invite you to join thousands of hands and hearts in prayer for the people of Upper Nile in South Sudan this Christmas Season. Shukran! Thank you.


Dear friends in Christ,

I urge you to join me in prayer for justice and peace for the people of the young nation of South Sudan.

Within the last few months, relatively localized fighting between two groups in the Upper Nile region of South Sudan has gradually become a more widespread conflict between the Shilluk and the Nuer peoples, two ethnic groups who used to live peacefully together. The latest reports indicate that more than 3,000 people — mostly women, children, and elderly people — have been killed in Fashoda county.

This situation is made even more dire due to heavy flooding in the region, so survivors have had to flee their homes and are living on small “islands” of land or seeking shelter in camps for displaced persons. Many people have no way of contacting their loved ones, so they do not know if they have been killed or if they are alive and displaced or in hiding.

Let us be in prayer for the people of South Sudan, especially those who carry the burden of this ongoing conflict — the women, children, and the elderly. Pray also for our Global partners, the South Sudan Presbyterian Evangelical Church, the Presbyterian Church of South Sudan, RECONCILE, ACROSS and the South Sudan Council of Churches. Pray that God will give wisdom to these partners as they minister to their fellow South Sudanese and that they can be a voice to the leaders of the country. Let us pray for the leaders of South Sudan that they will put peace, genuine security and the dignity of all the people of South Sudan as the priority of their leadership.

Pray also for the anticipated joint ecumenical visit to South Sudan by Presbyterians, Anglicans and Catholics in early 2023. May this visit bring hope to the people of South Sudan and prompt meaningful action to address the suffering of the people.

I would also invite those who feel able to do so to contribute to the PC(USA)’s efforts to accompany and support our partners’ ministries by making gifts to:
  • DR000097-South Sudan, Presbyterian Disaster Assistance’s crisis response and recovery initiatives in South Sudan
  • E051172, Presbyterian World Mission’s South Sudan Education and Peacebuilding Project
  • E052152, the Presbyterian Ministry at the United Nations and the Office of Public Witness in Washington, D.C., help to amplify our partners’ voices in the public square.

Let us look to God, our help, our hope and our salvation.

Stated Clerk Signature
Rev. Dr. J. Herbert Nelson, II
Stated Clerk of the General Assembly
Presbyterian Church (U.S.A.)

Call to prayer published by PC(USA) News Service here.

Saturday, December 10, 2022

Healing Visit to Akobo

 On our drive from the airport to our guest house in Akobo, we saw a busy and colorful market with a mix of goods from Ethiopia, Sudan, and other places. We were told that in the wet season the main roads of the town are barely passable due to the thick clay-mud that forms. Now that dry season had arrived, the clay hardened into firm ‘rocks’ with big cracks in between, so that you always had to watch where you walked. In parts of the town, the road was lined by big trees that gave shade over the road. My colleague lamented that those who planted the trees decades ago did not plant fruit trees that would produce something useful for the people. The town of Akobo is spread along the bank of a river which has many tributaries coming off it. Many of the other nearby villages are also along the rivers, so water is a common mode of transport.

The main road through Akobo, lined with trees

kids playing and washing in the river

Our workshop was to start on December 1. But on that morning as we prepared to start, we learned that each year the churches in town hold a march and combined worship service to celebrate the beginning of the Christmas season. At six in the morning we heard the drums and singing as people marched, and we found our way to the church by following the sound of singing. We started our workshop just as their service was ending, setting up in the shade of a big tree next to the church building.

The first day of the workshop. We were grateful for a big tree!
We moved the chairs around as the shade moved through the day. :)

During introductions at the beginning of the workshop, we learned that participants came from the four different ‘payams’ (districts) of Akobo, and a diverse representation of chiefs and members of local government, church leaders and members, men and women, older people and youth. We were told that the primary conflict in Akobo is between clans based in the four different payams, so we were happy that people came from all the regions, even if some had to travel by canoe or cross rivers to get there. We discussed the overall purpose of the workshop and the expectations that people had. There are many humanitarian organizations as well as the United Nations working in South Sudan, even in remote corners like Akobo, so a workshop is a common occurrence, particularly for leaders. This meant expectations were high, including things like receiving a t-shirt, sitting allowance (to compensate for the work they were missing), and even requests for things like raincoats and tarps. It was a difficult conversation and reality check for our team and also for all the participants; we all came to an understanding about what we could provide and why we were not meeting all of their expectations.

We were given a ‘security briefing’ when we checked in with the humanitarian organization that was giving us lodging. “The security situation is relatively stable right now,” the staff person said, “so if you hear gunshots it is probably either a celebration or a revenge killing.” On our third day, we heard the gunshots late at night, and learned the following morning that someone had been killed in a revenge attack between the clans in two different payams. It was the final day of our workshop, and we wondered how our participants were affected by the killing and whether they would be able to come. We were pleasantly surprised to see almost all of the participants made it that day, which showed the value that they placed on the workshop and their commitment to promote peace.

Doing a drama about our identity in the
holy nation that God calls us to (1 Peter 2:9)

On the second day of the training, we were talking about wounds in our hearts. One older man raised is hand and said “since you’ve been digging at my wound for the last two days, I have to speak it out. I had a conflict once, and one of the men here was the judge of the local court over my case. He did not give me my right in the case, but instead gave favor to one of his relatives. I have been angry with him ever since. But now I forgive him. I don’t hold it against him anymore.” He stood up and reached over to the man he had referred to, who also stood up and they shook hands warmly, both smiling.

Pastor John Lam from Akobo teaches about the church.
The man in the front row (second from right) is the one
who stood up to forgive another participant.

We heard several testimonies on the third morning of the workshop of how God was working in people’s lives. One woman said “All of these teachings were about me. I think they came to Akobo just for me, because this is what I needed to hear.” She then described how she had been abused by her husband and finally separated from him when he continued to mistreat her and her children and did nothing to help or provide for them. She has struggled with bitterness and anger against him. She said that she now forgives him and feels free in her heart, although she will not return to her husband. She even said that if she were able she would call her husband on the phone right there to prove to us that she has forgiven him.

A woman sharing her testimony on the second day

Participants put their papers with their pain writtenon it
in a basket at the cross, sybmolizing giving it over to Jesus

We conducted the workshop in Nuer, since that is the common language in Akobo. We always like to have a diverse teaching team, so we had two Nuer from different regions, a Dinka woman, and me. And because Mama Sarah (the Dinka) has a remarkable gift for languages and heart for people, she was able to teach in Nuer. This made discussion and sharing much easier when we did not have to translate very often. One of the SSPEC pastors in Akobo, Rev. John Lam, was trained to facilitate the workshop in March of this year. He coordinated all the logistics in advance of our coming, including inviting participants, and also taught one of the sessions.  We were very grateful to have someone local who had experienced the workshop and knew what to expect.

Our team of facilitators who came from Juba

Near the end of the workshop is the ‘Standing in the Gap’ session about corporate repentance. When the opportunity was given for people to repent, Mama Sarah was the first one to confess the ways that her people, the Dinka, had hurt the people of Akobo. A woman came up in response to Mama Sarah’s confession and shared that some of her relatives had been killed by Dinka people and she had been filled with anger and hurt towards them. But now she felt able to forgive and warmly expressed her forgiveness and thanks to Mama Sarah. Others also shared how significant it was to hear her acknowledge how they had been hurt and expressed forgiveness. Nyakuma, who was facilitating the session, then invited me to come and confess the wrongs done by my British and European ancestors that has harmed those in Akobo. I named a few of the more significant ways that those in Europe and America have caused harm in South Sudan, particularly coming with an attitude of superiority and taking the freedom to exploit the people and the natural resources. As I was sharing, the participants started clapping – I think they were surprised and pleased to hear someone acknowledge how our actions from the West had contributed to their suffering.

A man responds to Mama Sarah's confession with forgiveness

We capped off the workshop with a celebration of being God's Holy Nation, where all people are included and valued. The people from each payam stood up in turn and the rest of us affirmed the good qualities and talents from that community. Then we blessed them and spoke out the good things we wished for them before they shared a dance or song from their community. It was so beautiful to see how eager people were to affirm the other groups and the collective joy as we celebrated each others' cultures. Knowing the backdrop of the pain and conflict that these participants carry, to experience the joy of celebration together was a real gift and I pray that it gave them as much hope as it did for me.

Giving people crowns to symbolize that each of us a citizen of God's Holy Nation

Affirming each community by sharing the things we appreciate about them

Participants who live in the town of Akobo sing a song celebrating their town


Saturday, November 26, 2022

Exploring how God is at work in different corners!

During the crisis and war which began in South Sudan in December 2013, entire populations were displaced from their home regions, and their institutions often moved with them. One such institution is Giffen Institute of Theology (GIT), formerly in Malakal (Upper Nile), now located in Kakuma Refugee Camp in the far northwest corner of Kenya. 

Students, Faculty and Staff of GIT (Kakuma Refugee Camp) 


Dramatic flight with Mission Aviation Fellowship (MAF) 
from Juba to northwest Kenya
                                                                               

Rev. Paul Ruot Kor, a former student who has become a friend, currently serves as principal. Rev. Paul has been serving as a pastor for more than forty years and has much to offer students at GIT. As an historian, Rev. Paul suggests that GIT has trained and graduated more Presbyterian pastors in South Sudan than any other institution. It was a great joy for me to visit my friend Paul, to collaborate together with him, to go into the camp each day, to help teach a couple of classes, to share from the book of Job during chapel, to spend time with faculty, staff, and students, to gain a better understanding of life at the school, the joys and the challenges, and to experience life in the camp which included one of the part-time teachers being robbed one morning while I was there.

Rev. Paul Ruot at his desk in his office at GIT;
we had some nice discussions together about faith and culture



Rev. Ruot and I teach on the Trinity;
Rev. Ruot explains the Godhead as "three in one"
in the local Nuer language 

It was also a joy to meet Rev. Paul’s wife and child and eat the wonderful “kop” together which his wife had prepared. It was also nice to have time together whereby I could query my friend concerning my own research interests, namely concerning Nyarial (Eleanor Vandevort, former missionary to Sudan) and her Nuer brother, Rev. Moses Kuac Nyoat, the first Nuer pastor in southern Sudan. 

Rev. Ruot with wife and child (to my right in photo)
Faculty member and community member (to my left)  


Eleanor Vandevort (Nyarial) in Nasir, circa 1950s
Former missionary to Sudan, friend to the Nuer people



Rev. Moses Kuac Nyoat
first Nuer pastor and friend to Nyarial
Rev. Ruot spent time as a young pastor learning about and from Kuac Nyoat
 
I am grateful for Rev. Ruot's invitation for me to come visit him at GIT in Kakuma Refugee Camp!

Sunrise, Kakuma Town (November 1st, 2022)


Tuesday, October 25, 2022

Equipping for healing in Rwanda

This month I was in Rwanda for two big events related to the Healing Hearts, Transforming Nations (HHTN) workshop that we have been doing in South Sudan. First, I served on the facilitation team of the International School of Reconciliation (ISOR), training new facilitators for this workshop who came from nine different countries. It was an intense time of learning and sharing together as we faced the wounds within us and within our countries. Nearly 10 delegates came from Ethiopia, where war is devastating the country and the social fabric. Four South Sudanese pastors came from northern Uganda, where they live in refugee camps after fleeing their homes in South Sudan during the crisis of 2016.

All participants, facilitators, and staff at the graduation
of the International School of Reconciliation

With a couple of the women from South Sudan at the graduation

At the end of the training, the new facilitators conduct HHTN workshops in groups in the community. I helped to coach one group as they prepared to teach, including learning dramas and figuring out how to make the teaching interactive and personal. Teaching in a workshop in a way that touches the heart and not just the head is not easy! Add to that the language challenge – most of our new facilitators were not Rwandan, so they spoke in English which was translated into Kinyarwanda. But they also do not speak English as their first language, so they are having to teach in a language that is not their most comfortable language. For some, this meant laboriously writing out what they wanted to say to make sure they would be clear. I was humbled and blessed by the hard work and caring hearts that each person in my group demonstrated. A few of them even incorporated testimonies of their own pain into their teaching which I know is difficult, but it served to open up the hearts of participants and give them hope for healing in they heard how God can bring healing.

A drama illustrates the challenge of bringing our pain to God

A Celebration of the Holy Nation at the end of the workshop

The second big event was a forum for practitioners who are using this workshop in healing and reconciliation ministries in this region of East Africa. It was a rich and meaningful time together, and I got to meet some faithful heroes that I have heard about for years. One group serves in Eastern Congo, visiting remote villages and promoting healing in places that have been repeatedly terrorized by militia. Four of us from South Sudan attended the forum, and it was inspiring to learn from others and see that ours is not the only country with challenges of instability and conflict! 

Participants at the forum

One of the central parts of the HHTN workshop is the session on the cross, where we take our pain to Jesus as the pain-bearer (Isaiah 53:4). During the forum, there was a chance for all of us who regularly conduct the cross workshop for others to participate in it ourselves, sharing our pain and giving it over to Jesus. As we stood together around the cross, several people shared of deep pain that weighed them down and we prayed together for freedom and healing. I was grateful for this safe space where all of us who are pour out for lives for others could share our own pain and find love and support.

each of us nails our pain to the cross

Our group from South Sudan, along with colleague George DeVyst,
a missionary who serves the people of Ukraine

A 'Unity football game' in the community

I give thanks for this gift of connection, inspiration, and equipping with others in this ministry. Please pray with us that God continues to use us as agents of healing and reconciliation in South Sudan, and brings the transformation and wholeness that only God can bring.

Saturday, September 24, 2022

Ministry to the Children of the Streets in Juba

Amidst the crowd outside the Konyokonyo market, I saw Zechariah Zechariah Adam, my former student. Zechariah smiled warmly as he reached through the throng to greet me. Though it was loud and difficult to hear one another, his message was clear and gave me a sense of wonder and joy. Zechariah related to me how he was now working with children who lived on the street. “Wow! That is wonderful.” I responded. Previously, as Zechariah’s teacher, I had had the vision that Zechariah would excel working with children, especially those living on the margins. Zechariah’s gentleness, humility, deep spirituality, and strong commitment would make him an excellent candidate for such work.

Zechariah Zechariah Adam 

Some weeks later, Zechariah would tell me that it was during the evangelism class I taught at Nile Theological College whereby God had inspired him along these lines. As part of that course, the final project for students was a practicum whereby groups of students would go out to the “bleeding points” of the city, to those places of great desperation and need to share the Good News of Jesus Christ. And so, out from the college they went, to prisons, hospitals, markets, orphanages, and streets, sharing the Gospel with those who needed a message of hope. Even as Jesus has sent out the seventy-two who returned with remarkable stories, my students went out and returned with glorious stories of how God had used them in manifold ways.

Ogud, one my former students, hold a child at a 
local transitional home called "Confident Children out of Conflict (CCC)    

Before Zechariah and I separated on that day near the Konyokonyo market, we exchanged phone numbers. He wanted me to come preach to the group of marginalized children to whom he was ministering. It took several weeks for us to finally align our schedules, but on a Saturday morning in early June my friend Albino and I went across the river to the Sherikat market where we met Zechariah. Zechariah took us to the compound of the ministry, a ministry to vulnerable children supported by Christians in Egypt. Albino and I sat and waited as Zechariah and the ministry staff made final preparations for the day. We learned that every Saturday vulnerable children are welcomed off the street to have their wounds cleaned, to participate in an energetic worship service, to receive a hot meal and be given a bar of soap to wash their bodies and clothes before leaving. This ministry is a drop-in-center, whereby the children can also visit during the week and receive help for various needs.

 
Children living on the streets, Juba
Photo Credit: MAF International, South Sudan

Our time worshiping with the children is one of the singular wonders and glories I have experienced in South Sudan. Imagine, an entire congregation filled with the most lowly, destitute, abandoned, and marginalized members of society. This was Jesus’ kind of crowd. These children knew that they had a need and they opened themselves up to me and my friend Albino like flowers open to the sun. As we worshiped in song, we all danced to the beat and sang, jumping back and forth, patting each other on the hands. The atmosphere felt simple and innocent, but it was also electric with the power and presence and love of God. Truly, how can one not be a conduit of God’s love and care in such a place?

 These children crave attention and affection despite the hardened exterior which life on the streets had foisted upon them. In this enclosed and safe environment, these children could express a dimension of themselves which was seldom seen or known to suspicious shop keepers and annoyed pedestrians. As a visitor, I could feel the level of intentional care and dignity being given to these children by Pastor Zechariah and members of the ministry staff. My heart was also touched to see two Egyptian men quietly doing “behind the scenes” work to support the ministry. They sought no accolades or commendation; they were simply supporting Zechariah and his staff who were doing direct ministry with these children.

I went home that day feeling energized. Pastor Zechariah gave me a “standing invitation” to return to visit this ministry anytime. I hope to visit again soon. Thank you for your prayers as Kristi and I seek to serve amongst marginalized persons and communities here in South Sudan.

Tuesday, August 23, 2022

Weddings and Funerals

Most South Sudanese people spend a lot of time attending funerals. We hear friends lamenting that it feels that there are so many funerals, and death comes too early and often here. We admire the way that people come together when death happens, and the way that they commemorate the person with multiple gatherings over a period of up to a year. People also take seriously celebrating the joyful occasions in life, like a wedding, perhaps because they know life can not be taken for granted. This month we have attended a few funerals and a wedding, so wanted to share some pictures from this significant part of life in South Sudan.

The funeral service at the church
commemorating Elder Daniel's life

Elder Daniel was an active member and influential leader in the South Sudan Presbyterian Evangelical Church. He passed away in June after a short period of sickness. He also held a high position in the government, so his funeral was attended by thousands of people. They first held the service in the church followed by burial at the home on the day that his body was brought from Nairobi. A few days later, they had a larger gathering to celebrate his life and pray together. Next week marks 40 days since his death, so another service of ‘final prayers’ will be held at his home.

The all-day funeral prayers for Elder Daniel
held at a field in order to accomodate the large crowd

Today, I visited Elder Daniel’s wife, Mama Achol. She remains at home for 40 days, and some close family members stay with her to keep her company in this period of mourning. Friends and relatives come to visit – today while I was there, several other women came just to be with her and the family. The women shared news and told stories, laughing and lamenting at the same time. We admire the real sense of community in South Sudanese culture and the way that people are present with each other, particularly in times of grief.

The ceremony of the burial at the home of Elder Daniel

Last week, Bob visited a colleague whose son had just died. Bob was not able to attend the funeral, but wanted to express his condolences. Visiting someone who is grieving is an important expression of solidarity. However, suddenly having the expenses of a funeral and hosting visitors can also become a burden to the grieving family, particularly for people wrestling with poverty and in a country where it feels like many people go from one crisis to another.

A joyful wedding in Juba

And then, some celebration! Last week I attended a wedding. It feels like there are far more funerals than weddings in Juba, so it was a rare treat to be invited to a wedding. A wedding also has several components and ceremonies –the dowry or engagement, the traditional ceremony, a church ceremony, and finally a reception. These might all happen on different days, so we admire the time and expense people invest in celebrating these life milestones. I attended the church ceremony last week – a joyful service with lots of singing, words of encouragement by relatives, and an exhortation by their pastor, emphasizing the importance of God being first in their marriage, because God dwells within us.

We are so grateful for the people around us in South Sudan, and the gift of being in relationship. We continue to look for advice sometimes on navigating the cultural protocol around these life events. But we have wonderful models and coaches in our colleagues and friends, and it makes us appreciate the gifts this culture has and the ways people make a great effort to stay connected.

Tuesday, August 9, 2022

Trip to Kodok

Due to security concerns related to the civil war still raging when we arrived in South Sudan in 2017, and since my role at Nile Theological College does not require travel, I had not left the city of Juba these last five years except for several trips to a Catholic retreat center seven miles outside the city. My understanding of the geography and geo-political realities of the country have come through conversations with my students and fellow faculty members, through studying maps, through reading, and through teaching which requires more reading and ongoing learning.

Map of South Sudan - Kodok is in the
northeastern corner of the country

However, within the last three months God has opened the door for me to make two important trips, including a recent trip to Kodok in Upper Nile State. Kodok is the historic capital of Fashoda County, a region of Upper Nile State which belongs to the Chollo (Shilluk) Kingdom and is the home of the Reth, their king. My colleague John and I traveled to Kodok primarily for doctoral research purposes regarding contextual theology, exploring the intersection of the Gospel and local culture along with the social/political realities and milieu of a people in their context and lifeworld.


We were given a "lift" to Kodok from Malakal by
a humanitarian organization; we ran out of gas 
enroute due to the weight of supplies and people
  
I have selected as one of my case studies the life and ministry of Rev. Johnson Amum. Johnson is the son of Ayik who served as the singer/poet for six Chollo Reths (kings). Ayik groomed his son Amum to take his place as singer/poet for the king, but sickness took sixteen-year-old Amum to the town of Malakal where his life would be forever changed through his encounter with the church and the person of Jesus Christ. While Amum inherited the natural gift of song composition and song presentation from his father, he was encouraged by his pastor from those early years as a young Christian to use this natural gift and translate it into use for the church, to bring praise, honor, and glory not to the Chollo king but to the Lord Jesus Christ, the King of kings. In Kodok, we spent time with local church leaders, church members, and respected community members who shared about the life and ministry of Rev. Johnson Amum. It was a significant journey.


Standing with Rev. Johnson Amum (to my left in the photo) and 
local church leaders  

What came as a surprise during this trip was how my eyes were opened. After five years of being sequestered in Juba and only hearing stories about displacement and suffering caused by war, I now stood in locations previously described to me by students who fled the fighting in 2014. Rev. Johnson described the ongoing trauma experienced by his daughter due to the crisis and war. When I asked him if he also was traumatized, he affirmed what we have commonly heard, “Yes, all of us in South Sudan are traumatized.” As I think about contextual theology, one cannot avoid the context of South Sudan, a land broken and devastated time and again by war.


In Kodok many such mounds of sand can be found, evidence 
of locations where homes have been destroyed 

On our way back to Juba, we stayed in the major port city of Malakal at the “Hub,” a maze of offices and an alphabet soup of non-governmental organizations (NGOs) working in the region, serving the humanitarian interests of the people. At the Hub, it felt like everyone was walking a bit faster; an air of importance and urgency permeated the place. Replete throughout was a sense of timeliness, order, speed, technological sophistication, accountability, and other highly prized values of western donors and aid agencies. In contrast to the Hub and its calculated efficiency was the large population inside the massive United Nations “protection of civilians” site (POC). Inside, protected by barriers and armed UN personnel carriers, the POC felt like a very large African village/town, suffused with life in all its strengths, weaknesses, and inherent glory. Children were playing everywhere, shopkeepers were relaxing after a long day, women were cooking local dishes in small restaurants, and almost everyone gawked at the strange “kawaja” (white westerner) walking with his South Sudanese friend to buy dried fish at the market within the POC. 


Displaced youth in Upper Nile (Wau Shilluk, Fashoda County)



Protection of Civilians (POC) site, Malakal


Leaving Kodok, navigating narrow channel out to 
the river (the Nile) 



John and I, returning from Kodok to Malakal

Being in the POC in Malakal reminded me that no matter how squeezed and pushed down a people are by deplorable circumstances related to the devastation of war and displacement, the reality of life and the hope of life will inevitably reveal itself. Lord of life, may the hope of life, the hope for a better life, and the hope for eternal life be the song which keeps our hearts light and our feet moving, one step at a time. In your mercy, hear the cries of your children.

Monday, July 25, 2022

Pilgrimage to Iona

 In June we took a long-anticipated journey to Scotland. Our primary goal was to have some time on the island of Iona, but we also enjoyed a couple weeks of vacation exploring the dramatic landscape and history of Scotland. Given the current challenges of Covid that make travel unpredictable and risky, we almost did not make it to Iona. But by God's grace we were able to be there for a few days, although shorter than planned. We wanted to share a few pictures and highlights from our time on this special island.

One of the ancient crosses near the abbey

For 1400 years, pilgrims have been traveling to the island of Iona, one of the islands of the Inner Hebrides of Western Scotland. Iona was founded as a monastic community in 563 CE by an Irish monk, Saint Columba. It has been described as a “thin place,” a place where heaven meets earth.


On the north coast of Iona

We were greeted by ancient rock formations reportedly formed by volcanic forces more than 1 billion years old. The island feels extra-terrestrial, otherworldly. There are no trees, or only very few. It is like standing on an ancient rock surrounded by icy cold waters, small, yet full of force and vibrancy. It is green, there is lots of mist and rain, and almost everywhere you go you will hear sheep baaing. Crossing the short distance from the island of Mull, one is captivated by the Abbey rebuilt in the 13th century in the very location of the original Abbey of Saint Columba from the 6th century, rebuilt again in the 20th century. 

The Iona Abbey, rebuilt on the same place as Columba's abbey in 600 AD.


They hold daily services in the Abbey


Bob enjoyed some time alone of prayer and reflection
in a quiet corner of the sanctuary

Our experience was filled with holy moments, divine encounters, kindred spirits and new friends along life’s journey, a spirit of worship and hospitality, and hearing the calls and seeing rare and interesting birds, most notably the Corncrake and the Puffin. One highlight was hiking to the very spot where Saint Columba and his companions landed from Ireland in 563 CE, the place from which Columba could no longer see Ireland, thus, the place to start a new community of faith which would spread upwards and outwards. 


Bob talking to a fellow hiker as we approach Columba's Bay


Along the hike, with Columba's Bay in the background


Tiny clusters of orchids along the hike


We passed many sheep as we hiked, in beautiful fields
brightened by tiny daisies and buttercups

We read a biography of Columba (which was written in the seventh century!) during out travels, and were inspired by the powerful ways that God worked through Columba to reveal God's truth, love, and power to people throughout Ireland, Scotland, and Britian. We are so grateful for the introduction that we got to this special part of the world with such rich spiritual history. Truly, God's creation, God's people, and God's Spirit were a source of refreshement that made it feel like we had been on the island for a week rather than just 3 short days.

"...In repentence and rest is your salvation,
in quietness and trust is your strength,
but you would have none of it."
Isaiah 30:15